05. april 2004 - 12:02Der er
25 kommentarer og 2 løsninger
NFSU - Jeg sidder fast!
Hej Eksperter!
Har et par spørgsmål om spillet Need for speed underground. Jeg er nu nået til level 57/111. Har kørt indtil nu på "hard". dog "medium" i enkelte baner. Jeg har ikke skiftet bil, dvs jeg kører i en Honda Civic. Men nu er spillet simpelthen begyndt at blive for svært. Det er mildest talt umuligt for mig at vinde et drag race, selvom jeg får >perfect shift< hver gang, og bruger nos så snart jeg er kommet i 5. gear. Ligemeget hjælper det. Last Place HVER gang. Så nu er mine spørgsmål:
-Hvad skal jeg gøre for at vinde drag racene? -Skal jeg skifte bil?
-Og hvor kan jeg se performance forskellen fra min egen bil, til den jeg vil bytte den til?
-Jeg har også mange problemer med drift mode i >hard<, men siden jeg (næsten) altid klarer den på medium, men jeg baldrer næsten hele tiden ind i siden :S - nogle tips dér?
Der bliver investeret massivt i AI. Teknologien er mere tilgængelig end nogensinde, og ambitionerne er høje. Alligevel oplever mange virksomheder, at resultaterne udebliver.
De biler, som du opnår adgang til undervejs i spillet, giver dig mulighed for at sammenligne, hvor hurtige de er m.v. i forhold til din nuværende bil - det gør du ved "Trade In" - Startede spillet med en Mazda MX5, som er den hurtigste i starten.
På det niveau, du er på nu, skal du helt klart skifte bil - du har allerede fået flere både hurtigere og bedre biler.
Med hensyn til drift, kan du, alt efter temperament, slå det der control system fra, så bilen skrider mere (husker ik lige, hvad systemet hedder præcist) *GG* - Steering control måske ...................
Ja! - Men forresten, er det bedst hvis jeg bare skifter til den nyeste bil jeg har (Mitshubishi Eclipse'n)? - Den fik jeg for et par baner siden. Skal man gøre sådan?
Jeg ser den, men det er jo kun i 10/10 forhold.. hmm.. der findes nok ikke andet så, men ok.. alle bilerne lige nu er bare oppe omkring 8-10 i speed og accel, men jeg taber alligevel med den bedste bil i drag :(
Jeg har stadig ikke fået nogen mail fra gamespot :( whatev.. Vi ser om det kommer.
Hvis du endnu ikke har fået mail, har du nok tastet forkert - min kom efter få minutter. Det er godt nok også et stykke tid siden jeg oprettede mig, men jeg tror ikke deres service er blevet SÅ dårlig. :)
Men hvis du er utoldmodig, kan jeg copy/paste info'en ind her.
Du kan også sende den i en mail til: liverpoolfc[snabel-a]sol.dk Der er nemlig stadig ikke kommet noget :( Jeg HAR prøvet at re-sende mailen til min email adresse, men det hjælper brik. Øv!
Her er alt hvad der står om bilerne:(nu må vi se om det hele kan komme med i en hug. :)
Cars
The cars in Need For Speed: Underground are fairly faithful analogues of their real-world counterparts. While the needs of an arcade racer like NFSU don't always allow for exceeding realism, you'll note that the game's cars possess turbochargers, six-speed transmissions, and the other accoutrements of the cars that they're modeled on.
A note about pricing: since the game doesn't allow you to purchase more than one vehicle at a time, you're forced to trade in your current car if you want to move to another model. All of your currently equipped visual and performance upgrades are switched to the new car, and they also affect the trade-in price of your car. As such, stock prices aren't available for the cars beyond the five you begin the game with; this shouldn't matter much, though, since the trade-in costs for the advanced cars should usually be well below the amount of money you have, even if you play through all of the races on the easiest difficulty. The one exception is the Nissan Skyline; it's a pricey car, so you'll want to have around 5,000 dollars on hand when you unlock it.
Acura Integra Type R
The Integra Type R is a popular car amongst modders. The 195-horsepower engine helps it knock out high top speeds, but it does suffer from somewhat lower acceleration than other cars.
Year: 2001 Drive: Front-wheel Unlocked: Race #53
Acura RSX Type S
The RSX is an entry-level premium car for Acura, but doesn't skimp on performance for the low price. The Type-S improves on the normal 5-speed transmission by offering a six-speed manual, along with a 200-horsepower 2.0-liter engine.
Year: 2003 Drive: Front-wheel Unlocked: Race #46
Dodge Neon
The Dodge Neon began the design process in 1993, and hit the streets two years later to almost universal praise. Utilizing a 2.0-liter engine, it delivers more power than most cars in a comparable price range.
The Focus has a large following among racing fans interested in domestic cars, and has sold through over a million vehicles in the first few years of its existence. The Performance kit for the ZX3 has an optional 2.3-liter, dual-overhead camshaft engine for extra oomph.
Year: 2003 Drive: Front-wheel Unlocked: Race #08
Honda Civic Coupe Si
The Civic Coupe has an astonishing array of aftermarket parts available for it, owing to its massive popularity among modders and car tuners. In NFS: Underground, this is probably the best FWD car you can buy at the beginning of the game, and with performance upgrades, it should be competitive for much of the Underground mode.
This is one of Honda's flagship sports cars, and comes standard with a six-speed transmission and powerful four-cylinder engine. Unfortunately for you, Underground doesn't let you remove the hard top, but this is still one of the best RWD vehicles in the late game. While it does lack the acceleration of some of the other RWD cars, its top speed is absolutely unbeatable.
Year: 2003 Drive: Rear-wheel Unlocked: Race #69
Hyundai Tiburon GT
The Tiburon GT has a massive V6 2.7-liter dual-overhead camshaft that pumps out 170 horsepower; coupled with a six-speed manual transmission, you can expect this car to be quite competitive once you start pouring in performance upgrades.
Year: 2003 Drive: Front-wheel Unlocked: Race #17
Mazda RX7
This is one of NFS: Underground's blasts from the past, as the 1995 model was the last to be sold in America. While newer versions of this car are available on the import market (and the RX8 has recently been introduced in the States), the 1995 breed still holds its own amongst its younger competitors. Drivers comfortable with rear-wheel vehicles will find this to be an excellent vehicle to use in the game's later races.
At the beginning of the game, the Miata will be the best (well, only) rear-wheel drive car available; if you enjoy the incredible handling that such a feature gives you, then you'll be comfortable using this vehicle for the bulk of the game's Underground mode.
The Eclipse GSX stands out among small sports cars, thanks mainly to a 2.0-liter, DOHC, turbocharged engine that puts out 210 horsepower. Among AWD cars, the Eclipse is second in performance only to the (much more expensive) Nissan Skyline.
Year: 1999 Drive: All-wheel Unlocked: Race #58
Mitsubishi Lancer
It's important to note that this car is a Mitsubishi Lancer, not the Lancer Evolution, a vastly more powerful beast, itself almost a straight replica of Mitsubishi's race-dominating rally car. The Lancer is no slouch, however, with excellent all-round performance; note that it does come with a front-wheel drive system instead of the Evo's AWD.
Year: 2003 Drive: Front-wheel Unlocked: Race #04
Nissan Skyline R34-GTR
The last car you unlock in NFS: Underground, the Nissan Skyline, can be likened to a caged animal waiting to be unleashed upon the world. The all-wheel drive can take a bit of getting used to, but after you've mastered the Skyline's mechanics, you'll find yourself in a car that's at the top of its class in handling, acceleration, and top speed. Even if you don't use the Skyline for racing, you may want to switch to it for drag challenges, where its tachometer is much more forgiving than other cars that are unlocked shortly before it.
Year: 1999 Drive: All-wheel Unlocked: Race #79
Nissan 350z
The 350z is the last rear-wheel drive vehicle you'll unlock in Underground mode, and if you can handle the massive power output of its 3.5-liter engine, you should find it to be one of the game's best cars.
Year: 2003 Drive: Rear-wheel Unlocked: Race #75
Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V
This 2004 Sentra trim is technically a compact family sedan capable of holding up to five passengers, but after a few modifications, you should be able to turn it into a lean racing machine.
Year: 2004 Drive: Front-wheel Unlocked: Race #24
Nissan 240sx
Although the stock engine configuration only puts out 155 horsepower, the 240sx can still be a competitor during the middle third of the game after you upgrade it. The handling and response of the rear-wheel drive still inspires some racers to track down aftermarket parts for this, the oldest vehicle in NFS: Underground
Year: 1992 Drive: Rear-wheel Unlocked: Race #33
Peugeot 206 2.0 Gti 16v 3d Hatchback
The Peugeot 206 is one of Underground's oddest vehicle choices, as it's available only in Europe. The hatchback model won't be able to ride with the big boys later on in the game, and certainly won't be a feasible option for online play, but does have excellent handling if you intend to use it for the game's first few challenges.
There are quite a few models in Subaru's Impreza line, running the gamut from wagons and SUV's to cars based on Subaru's World Rally competition cars. The 2.5 RS, however, is a sedan with a 165-horsepower, 2.5-liter engine.
Year: 2003 Drive: All-wheel Unlocked: Race #22
Toyota Supra
Although there was a Supra Turbo vehicle in the same model year, NFS: Underground uses the normally-aspirated engine model. The 225-horsepower engine produces a high top speed, but can't accelerate quite as fast as the RWD cars that become available a mere ten races after it.
Year: 1998 Drive: Rear-wheel Unlocked: Race #64
Toyata Celica GT-S
The Celica has long been one of America's best-selling cars, and the GT-S helps explain its popularity among modders. Although it costs around $5,000 more than the normal GT model, the GT-S pumps out 40 more horsepower and comes standard with performance tires.
Year: 2003 Drive: Front-wheel Unlocked: Race #41
Volkswagen Golf GTI
Although the Golf GTI may be a rather attractive car for the price in real life, Need For Speed: Underground apparently uses a crippled, 115-horsepower model that's only available in Europe. It is the game's cheapest car, but, as always, you get what you pay for.
Så er vi der jo næsten, men er stadig ikke kommet ind på gamespot. Jeg mangler stadig noget vejledning i drag race, jeg vinder stadig ikke på >hard<. I drift, er jeg kommet over mit easy trip, blot ved at skifte til en MEGET LIDT bedre bil, kan jeg hænge ved :)
If you're looking for quick cash, you can't do any better than a Drag race. These take place on a long, straight stretch of road, where you'll have to scorch off the starting line and beat the other three cars to the finish.
Your car controls much differently in a Drag race than it will in a regular challenge. For one thing, you won't be able to use an automatic transmission; manuals are mandatory. Second, steering is automatic, except for lane changes, which are done automatically when you move to the left or right. This may sound like it would result in a difficult race, but in fact, Drag challenges are among the most fun races in Need For Speed: Underground.
The Basics
Although the first car across the finish line is the victor, Drag races are really won at the starting line. Before you take off, you'll notice a tachometer along the left side of your screen; the needle here changes from blue, to green, to red, corresponding to the comparative readiness of your engine to upshift. While you're waiting for the race to start, you'll want to attempt to lightly press on your accelerator so that the needle stays green; this will give you a Perfect Shift to start the race and should let you jump out ahead of your competitors. It's difficult to maintain a green needle, though, especially on the Gamecube or PS2 controllers; if you're having a tough time with it, keep in mind that it's far better to shift early than late.
The same holds true after you begin the race. Immediately after a race begins, your car will be ready to shift into second gear, so watch the needle as it falls and rises, and try to time your button press along with the green needle. To aid your shifting, a blue dot will appear in the top-center of your screen to warn you when the perfect shifting opportunity is approaching; it will turn green during your window of opportunity. Shifting in the blue can either result in an Early Shift, which is bad, or a Good Shift, which is, well, good. Shifting in the red, however, will result in an Over Rev, which will take a bit longer to recover from than an under-shift. It's incredibly difficult to overtake a car after they pull away from you; if they're a few car lengths ahead, you can attempt to draft them, then pass, but if they're beyond drafting range, you usually will be forced to restart the race.
Early Drag races are simple affairs, but as you progress through the game, you can expect to see a few complications arise here and there, such as lanes suddenly ending, oncoming traffic, cars that pass across the track at intersections, ramps, and so forth; you'll need to stay on your toes if you don't want to total your car. (Although it must be said that the slow-motion replays of spectacular crashes more than make up for having to restart the race.) In addition to the normal style bonus for winning the race, you'll also be able to rack up points for near-misses, hang time, head starts, and drafting. Drafting becomes especially important as you begin to race against better cars; if someone gets a jump on you, shift over behind them and attempt to get a speed boost. Then pay them back by coming alongside them and ramming them into an oncoming car.
Upgrades
Unlocking the turbo and nitrous upgrades for your car will also increase the difficulty of Drags, or, at least, increase the amount of technical skill required to get a good jump off of the starting line and obtain Perfect Shifts. You'll notice that the red zone on your tachometer will shrink after installing a turbo kit; this will reduce the Perfect Shift zone required to get a good jump, so watch the needle carefully before you zoom off. Turbo kits also make it nearly impossible to get a Perfect Shift into second gear, due to the way the needle jumps after shifting into first, but a Good Shift shouldn't hurt you overmuch.
Nitrous systems can also make your life more difficult. Keep in mind that after you install a part onto your car, all of the other cars that you're racing against will be equipped with the same thing, and they'll generally be more proficient in their use of nitrous than you will be. You'll likely not want to hit your NOS before you reach third gear; doing so before that shift will usually force your needle into the red, and lock you into an Over Rev shift into fourth. You can use nitrous in bursts between your early gears, to get into position for a Perfect Shift, but again, this puts you at risk of an Over Rev if you don't time your burst properly. Of course, after you hit fourth or fifth gear, you'll be able to drain your NOS for a huge speed gain; this can help you catch up to a car that's pulled away, or just extend your lead a bit. Most of the computer racers will drain their nitrous early, so don't panic too much if they jump out ahead; just get behind them, hit your own nitrous, and blast past them after drafting. Just make sure not to push your engine too far with nitrous; blowing an engine is as bad as totaling.
Strategies
If you're having a hard time getting a jump off the line, try going into your garage and reverting back to a stock turbo kit. Doing so will force your competitors to remove their turbo kits, as well, but will also make it much, much easier to hit early Perfect Shifts. Revving up before a race will still be difficult, but losing the turbocharger will eliminate your tachometer's proclivity to jump before shifting to second gear, and will give you a much bigger window in which to get Good Shifts and Perfect Shifts. If your competitors keep bursting out in front of you, you can attempt to take off your nitrous system as well. Some challenges, however, will detect your car's capabilities and force you to install these parts if you've taken them off.
Although blocking is important in races, it's especially vital in drag challenges, where you can push your opponents into obstacles or cars, or simply prevent them from passing you until you hit the finish line. Use your rear-view mirror to check on any cars that are drafting you, and try to get out of their way so that they can't gain a speed boost; if they try to race by, jam over into their lane. If you actually hit an opposing racer while changing lanes, you'll either be repelled back into your lane, or they'll be forced over; your chances of getting a good result depend on the position of your cars. If you're slightly ahead of their front end, you'll likely win; if you're hitting their rear, you won't accomplish anything useful.
Time Trial
In Underground mode, you'll occasionally come across Time Trial challenges, which are effectively solo Sprints. Instead of racing against other cars, you'll need to make your way from the starting line to the finish line before the pre-set time limit is reached; the prize for these kind of races is usually a unique upgrade to your car that cannot be bought in the garage.
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